Bhutan is a small Himalayan Kingdom with a
history of rich cultural Heritage. One of its
unique features is hand woven textile. It is
also one of the glories of Bhutanese popular
art. Central and Eastern Bhutan are the primary
centers of textile production, which is
primarily a home handicraft done by women. While
Thimphu itself has all the varieties of local
textiles, it wouldn’t compensate for a trip to
the interior where some of Bhutan’s most famous
textiles have originated. We can watch live
demonstrations by rural Bhutanese women of
weaving traditions, preparation of dyes and
other colors. Different regions have typical
designs and fabrics, and even looms of special
design. This tour travels across Bhutan to visit
folk textile centers, learn about the techniques
of weaving, the significance of Bhutanese
designs and colors, and to meat the weavers
themselves
1. Bumthang in central Bhutan is acclaimed for
weaving with sheep wool. The weavers here
produce heavy twill fabrics made into blankets,
rain cloaks, shawls and winter garments. All
weaving is done on horizontal frame looms. Plaid
woolen fabrics whose predominant colour is red (mathra)
are trademark of Bumthang. Bumthang is also the
home of yathra –a woolen cloth patterned with
traditional designs. The group will visit the
Chumey and the Ura villages where traditional
weaving is still strong.
2. Kurtoe/Lhuntse in North Central Bhutan is
famous for cloth decorated with Kushu, a
regional style of continuous supplementary-weft
patterning on a wide field. The area is also
known for mathra (plaid cloth, predominantly red
pattern). The most celebrated of Kurto’s
supplementary-weft pattern weaving is the
woman’s dress called Kushuthara (brocaded
dress), decorated in the Kushu technique also
seen on bags and other textiles. In Khoma
village, a three-hour walk from road head where,
again, live demonstrations will be held. In
Khoma the group can also get acquainted with the
Bhutanese tradition of receiving and sending off
guests, an elaborate but fully satisfying
experience which has disappeared in other parts
of Bhutan.
3. Eastern Bhutan is renowned for plain weave
fabrics, supplementary-weft-patterned fabrics,
and supplementary warp patterned fabrics. This
region produces an enviable range of textiles,
of which the most coveted is Aikapur,
characterized by alternating bands of plain
weave (pang) and supplementary warp patterning
(hor) done in five combinations. The group will
visit Radhi, a village famous for producing this
cloth.
5. It would be a must to visit Khaling in
Trashigang where the government has established
the country’s only handloom center. The center
is known for its innovative designs,
incorporating both traditional and modern
designs and colorings.
TEXTILES
Weaving a Spell Over You.
Few people know of the isolated Himalayan
country of Bhutan. Still fewer know that among
its many hidden treasures is a magical mosaic of
rich vibrant hues and patterns, in myriad
weaves. Weaves that have today become vivid
symbols of the Dragon Kingdom.
Discover this timeless tradition on the Weaver’s
Trail, a 13-day trip through the weaves of
Bhutan, with Silver Dragon Tours & Treks,
Thimphu. (A world Away Travels). Your host to a
wondrous country.
Weaving- More than a tradition, a Passion!
The art of weaving is held in high esteem in
Bhutan and it is surprisingly prevalent. Many
women, especially in central and eastern Bhutan,
weave at home. They do not belong to any
particular social group or corporation, but are
simple village women who use their spare time to
weave clothes for their family, and sell what is
left over.
The economic benefits of weaving, however,
cannot fully indicate its social significance.
The recognition and prestige that goes with
being acknowledged as a good weaver is immense.
In Bhutan, there are many women who have earned
the honour! so intrinsic is weaving to the
culture and tradition of Bhutan, that it is a
favourite topic of discussion. People constantly
compare notes and judge the quality of weaving.
The tightness of the ground weave, the delicacy
of the supplementary weft or warp patterns, the
ingenuity of motifs, colours and combinations.
Each of these is discussed and commented upon at
length.
Weaves that capture the imagination:
Bhutanese weavers use cotton, silk or wool to
create intricate patterns. But the fabrics they
are best known for are Brocade Patterning and
the Floating Warp technique. In the former,
designs are woven in the ground with either the
supplementary weft or the supplementary warp
technique. The floating warp technique creates
beautiful patterns on the front of the fabric.
But such is the skill involved that the reverse
bears no evidence of this.
Weaving in Bhutan- Unique dimensions.
Weaving has special social significance in
Bhutan. Apart from weaving for home consumption
and supplementing income, fabrics are also woven
to be given as gifts. On occasions like
promotions and marriages, they are presented in
a set of prescribed odd numbers. These may be
3,5,7 or 9, according to the rank of the
recipient. What’s more, reselling a dress (Kira)
is fairly common. Whenever a person does not
like her Kira any more or needs to raise money,
a sale may take place. Fabrics are considered
assets, which can be traded in the same way as
gold, land, or stocks and bonds. Once an
economic force, the gift of woven fabrics has
today become an important custom. A proud
tradition that is prevalent even in the urban
parts of Bhutan.
Looms that create magic.
The tools of the weavers trade are themselves
objects of great fascination. Traditionally,
fabrics were woven of a back strap vertical
loom. Today, this loom is used mainly for cotton
and silk fabrics, while wool is woven on a pedal
loom.
The four types of looms in use nowadays are:-
The fixed horizontal frame loom- Originally from
Tibet, this type of loom is used by the people
of Central and Western Bhutan to produce
‘Setha’. Interestingly, the actual operation of
the loom-also the most strenuous part-is done by
foot.
The fixed horizontal frame loom with a back
strap. The women of Laya (N.Bhutan) use this to
weave yak hair and nettle fibre into elegant,
stylish designs.
The fixed vertical frame loom. A traditional
loom, which is used to weave cotton and silk.
The card loom. A uniquely shaped loom that is
used to weave kera-the long thin waistbands with
which both men and women secure their
traditional robes.
The fine art of Dyeing.
In Bhutan dyeing is done throughout the year.
The dyes used are the red lac dye and Assam
indigo. However, red lac dyeing of silk, wool
and cotton is generally preceded by a dyeing
process using leaves of the Zhim tree. To impart
a rich yellow colour to the fabric.
The Weavers Trail.
Revel in the magic of Bhutanese fabrics as you
follow The Weavers Trail. An itinerary that
specially captures the enchantment of Bhutan's
matchless fabrics and takes you through every
step of their creation.
The Weavers Trail helps you unravel the secrets
behind.
* Materials that make the dye.
* Dyeing and spinning of yarn.
* The loom and weaving kit.
* Actual weaving methodology.
* Finished products.
To see how the Bhutanese weaves come alive, The
Weavers Trail takes you through:
Bumthang - where you see the sheep
development farm managed by the Animal Husbandry
Department. This abundant supply of wool is then
woven into the country’s famous fabrics - Matha
and Setha.
Pema Gatsel - an area that holds out several
insights into traditional weaving at its very
best.
Radi - a place where you’ll see households with
expert weavers producing the finest fabrics. The
same fabrics that are in such great demand in
the markets of Thimphu.
Khaling - this centre, not very far from
Trashigang, produces fabrics which you will see
again at the Handicrafts Emporium in Thimphu.
